Thursday, July 2, 2015

Exercise Ideas/Keep Busy Ideas

Swimming- pool or beach or baby plastic wading pool -outdoors

Play with cored apple or bobbing for apples (baby pool)- indoors/outdoors

Laser Pointer- dog chases dot of light (DON'T over do!) -indoors

Dog play in sprinkler -outdoors

Chase a hose squirting water - outdoors

Car rides (not too hot or cold weather, unless heat or air conditioning) - outdoors

Teach dog to heel and jog with dog - outdoors

Walk with dog (walk as fast as is comfortable for owner)- outdoors

Frisbee- outdoors

explain- Retrieve/Structured retrieve (flexi leash/25 ft long line)- indoors or outdoors

Soccer with a ball or 2 liter bottle (NO CAP)- indoors/outdoors

explain -Hide and seek with dog toy or person - indoors/outdoors

explain- Hiking with dog back pack - outdoors

Agility (dog obstacle course) - outdoors

Park/Beach with flexi leash- outdoors

Dog Train /Obedience commands (can do during TV commercials) - indoors

explain- Name Game - indoors/outdoors

Canine IQ test (check the internet)- indoors

Dog Tricks (check internet or books at local library)- indoors/outdoors

Pet store shopping (heeling/obedience) indoors

Dog Shows - outdoors

explain- Bike Spring Heeling - outdoors

explain- Stuffed Kong - indoors/outdoors

explain- Stuffed sterilized bone - indoors

Chase child's non toxic bubbles - indoors/outdoors

Doggie day care - indoors/outdoors

Hire a dog walker -outdoors

Dog Park - outdoors

Dog clubs/check for classes - indoors/outdoors

explain -Buster cube - indoors

explain- Amaze a ball - indoors

explain- Kibble Toss - indoors/outdoors










Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Recommended Dog Training DVD's and Books

My favorite

(DVD) The Positive Gentle Method "Train You Dog" Nicole Wilde and Laura Bourhanne

Other favorites

(DVD and book) My Smart Puppy--- Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson
(DVD) Puppy Love...---Karen Pryor
(DVD) Clicker Puppy---  Doggone Crazy
(DVD and book) Feeling Outnumbered...---Patricia B. McConnell

Housetraining/ Housebreaking

Housetraining (teaching not to "go" in the house to "go" outside only!)


First thing to do is get a vet check, a urinalysis and CBC blood test to make sure all is well (do this especially if you are having problems housetraining your dog and you have followed the schedule/rules or if your dog was doing great but then regressed, epecially if the regression came after being boarded at a kennel )

DO NOT "rub your dog's nose in it"...dogs don't understand this...they know it is their poop! Make sure you watch them 100% til they are reliable going outside and then you can shorten the leash/rope til they don't need it anymore.


100% supervision this is REALLY important! If you don't watch 100% or the dog is in it's crate/puppy pen, the puppy can "sneak off" and have an accident somewhere else in the house. Each time it has an "accident"and you weren't watching, it is training itself that it is OK to "go" in the house. If you are doing chores take your dog with you  and tether to a doorknob or other sturdy tether or put the dog in their crate/puppy pen or other safe room.


On leash or teaching lead-Make sure when a leash or teaching lead is on the puppy/dog you are there 100% of the time no going outside for a minute, or answering the phone for a minute... take the puppy with you or take off the leash/rope. Dogs can get tangled, panic and choke themselves!


Can hold pee and poop at 4 months for 5 hours(when excited/ playing less!) Take the dogs age in months and add 1 hour that is approximately how long they can hold their urine/.feces. Do not keep them in a crate longer than this or they will be forced to "go" in the crate! This is NOT what you want  to teach them!

No attention outside(DO NOT play with the puppy on "potty breaks" this is serious training time play can be at other times of the day and on leash til puppy/dog goes potty) Go out with dog on leash for 5-10minutes and stand, boring like a tree in one area, until the puppy goes to the bathroom quietly say the potty command see below as the puppy is in the process of peeing/ pooping. Reward the dog with a treat or a pet, and then go right back in the house.

Quietly praise for "going" outside add a command like"Busy Busy" or "Go Potty" or "Hurry Up"

No food or water after 7 or 8 pm

Submissive urination- if the puppy/dog urinates from exitement or when someone yells /is loud DO NOT scold the puppy this is sumissive urination and you need to build the dog's confidence and don't say hello  all loud and crazy with lots of pets. Also do not let strangers bend down over the dog and say a crazy hello you know the type while vigerously petting the dog the person says"OOOOH what a pretty puppy you are the cutest thing I've ever seen,OOOOwhat a puppy..........." An owner should say a quiet hello too when coming in from work/errands. With a dog that urinates when said hello to ignoring by a visitor adn /or owner is preffered when coming in the home.

3-4x day Good quality food and 1 inch of water in bowl at a time(Do not give a huge bowl of water at one time...you KNOW what happens when you drink a lot of water at one time, many trips to the bathroom!)Let dog out as soon as it is finished eating.

Sniff floor circle or whine- take outside

Most time in house peaceful and calm and not 100% petting/attention. Sometimes the dog should be left in another safe room or in it's crate.

As the puppy gets older, about 5-6 months old, they can be taught to ring a bell with their nose to go out(make sure when the bell is rung you put dog on leash and go out and no playing, no attention this is just a potty break...if you let the dog get into the habit of ringing the bell and you play with the puppy outside you will hear non-stop ringing and the dog will be training you to take him/her out to play!

Friday, October 23, 2009

Food Stuffed Kongs (or any other toy with a hole)

Kong toys or real sterilized bones(found at the local pet store)can be filled with dog treats and food to make a GREAT "Puppy Pacifier" so the dog is more interested in IT than chewing on your hand and your precious home decor!

What to stuff in a Kong Toy (or any other very hard dog toy with a hole)
If your dog can rip/ tear and eat the Kong itself don't give him/her this toy. The black rubber Kong is their strongest type for extreme chewers.

Pick the largest Kong that your dog can manage(larger will be stronger and harder for the dog to chew and also you can get a good amount of treats/foods stuffed in.

http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html

Fill with any foods your dog LOVES
Some ideas
Peanut butter
Cream Cheese
Cheese Spray
Dry Dog Food
Dog biscuits
Small pieces of hot dogs
meatballs
chicken
lunchmeat
eggs
carrots/other veggies
fruit
ice(plug up one hole and fill with water then place in ziploc bag in the freezer-remove Ziploc bag before letting your dog have the Kong- give this toy outside as it will melt)
meat broths/stocks(see above)

Also see Kong's website for stuffing ideas Go to "Tips and Advice" and their "Kong Recipes" section Kong also makes many stuffing products also!

If you are concerned about a mess:
1) most dogs usually eat EVERY SPECK of food/filling
2) give the dog a covered dog bed or let the dog eat the stuffing out of the Kong in their crate or outside. Usually dogs go for the cushy spots so if you give thema dog bed or comforter to lay on that is where they will pick to chew their toy.(when that gets dirty it can go right into the wash!)

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Dog Reward Favorites

When your canine pal needs a little praise on a job well done, here are some ideas that can make him/her happy. Pick the things your dog loves the best, each dog is different!

For instance if you say "Sit" and your dog's rear hits the floor in record speed... try rewarding the dog with:

A favorite food treat (small bits so as not to gain weight)
A belly rub
A chest scratch
An ear rub
Under the collar neck scratch
A favorite toy
A game of fetch
A food stuffed Kong
A rawhide(make an educated decision with your vet to use or not use rawhide)
A Nylabone
A Raw Bone
Petting
Car Ride

Monday, October 19, 2009

Crate Training

When you get your puppy or new dog, get a cage or crate that is large enough for your adult dog to stand turn around and lay down comfortably. If you have a puppy try to judge how large he will be as an adult and get that size cage/crate. When you get a small puppy that will be much bigger as an adult use a cage divider(a metal crate "wall") that many cages come with to divide the cage into smaller areas for the young puppy, or use a heavy duty cardbord box to cut down the size of the cage for your puppy(watch the cardboard for signs of wear and tear, remove if the puppy chews it replace with a cage divider).
Make sure you leave just enough room for the young, small puppy to stand(usually not a problem)turn around, and lie down comfortably. If you leave to much room in the crate for the young pup he/she will poop and pee on one side and sleep on the other. You NEVER want your puppy to learn to go to the bathroom in the crate, sometimes accidents happen and if your puppy goes a few times that usually is not a problem but you don't want it to become a habit.

Many times puppies gotten from pet stores will go to the bathroom in their crates, for these dogs try to leave their crate door open and put an exercise pen or puppy play pen attached so the puppy cannot leave the area but doesn't have to go to the bathroom in their cage, He or she can go to the bathroom in the puppy pen(you can put wee wee pads or newspaper down in the puppy play pen, but not in the crate!. NEVER line the cage with newspaper or wee wee pads, this sends the message that the puppy is SUPPOSED to go to the bathroom in their cage/crate. You don't want that !

Put some soft bedding in the crate if the dog doesn't try to eat it/shred it. If they eat or shred the bedding put them in the crate with just the bottom tray pan that comes with the crate, and no bedding.
1)Put in a couple of safe chew toys(large enough that they can't choke on, hard enough that they can break off large pieces and swallow them. )
2)Also put in an article of clothing or a blanket with your sent on it.(if the puppy doesn't chew it)
Leave the crate door open and let the puppy explore, it is a great idea to feed the puppy in the crate sometimes , and give him/her treats and special toys to find in the crate. This all makes the crate a happy and positive place to be.
Put the crate in an area of the house that is frequently visited by the family at first, many people pick the kitchen or living room.
Use a leash on the puppy(ONLY WHEN SUPERVISED) so that the puppy doesn't wander away to have an accident, or wanders off when he/she doesn't feel like paying attention, or doesn't sneak away to "get into" something he/she shouldn't have.

Another fun thing to do is to play "kibble toss" take your dog's dry dog food or small treats and toss /scatter them in the crate then leave the crate door open and let the dog "have at it".

Another way to get the dog to go in the cage and stay there with the cage door open is to tie(on a VERY short string or chain- if it's too long it can be a choking hazard) a food-stuffed kong to the back of the cage so the dog has to go in to enjoy it , but can't bring the toy out with him/her(it's attached to the cage!)
A Lixit water bottle is a great attachment to the crate (they are like the hamster water bottles that you hang on a hamster cage but they ake them in dog sizes too.)
Crate training is invaluable for house training(getting the dog not to have potty accidents in the house), for keeping the puppy/dog safe from getting into unsafe foods/items in the house, for keeping safe and peaceful around rough children/or the other way around... if your dog doesn't like children.
Another great thing about teaching your dog to be crate trained is if they ever have to travel,by car or by air, or are sick and have to go to the vet, it is a lot less stressful when they know that a cage is a "happy " place.

Eventually work up to short and longer times in their crates with the door shut.