Kong toys or real sterilized bones(found at the local pet store)can be filled with dog treats and food to make a GREAT "Puppy Pacifier" so the dog is more interested in IT than chewing on your hand and your precious home decor!
What to stuff in a Kong Toy (or any other very hard dog toy with a hole)
If your dog can rip/ tear and eat the Kong itself don't give him/her this toy. The black rubber Kong is their strongest type for extreme chewers.
Pick the largest Kong that your dog can manage(larger will be stronger and harder for the dog to chew and also you can get a good amount of treats/foods stuffed in.
http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html
Fill with any foods your dog LOVES
Some ideas
Peanut butter
Cream Cheese
Cheese Spray
Dry Dog Food
Dog biscuits
Small pieces of hot dogs
meatballs
chicken
lunchmeat
eggs
carrots/other veggies
fruit
ice(plug up one hole and fill with water then place in ziploc bag in the freezer-remove Ziploc bag before letting your dog have the Kong- give this toy outside as it will melt)
meat broths/stocks(see above)
Also see Kong's website for stuffing ideas Go to "Tips and Advice" and their "Kong Recipes" section Kong also makes many stuffing products also!
If you are concerned about a mess:
1) most dogs usually eat EVERY SPECK of food/filling
2) give the dog a covered dog bed or let the dog eat the stuffing out of the Kong in their crate or outside. Usually dogs go for the cushy spots so if you give thema dog bed or comforter to lay on that is where they will pick to chew their toy.(when that gets dirty it can go right into the wash!)
Friday, October 23, 2009
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Dog Reward Favorites
When your canine pal needs a little praise on a job well done, here are some ideas that can make him/her happy. Pick the things your dog loves the best, each dog is different!
For instance if you say "Sit" and your dog's rear hits the floor in record speed... try rewarding the dog with:
A favorite food treat (small bits so as not to gain weight)
A belly rub
A chest scratch
An ear rub
Under the collar neck scratch
A favorite toy
A game of fetch
A food stuffed Kong
A rawhide(make an educated decision with your vet to use or not use rawhide)
A Nylabone
A Raw Bone
Petting
Car Ride
For instance if you say "Sit" and your dog's rear hits the floor in record speed... try rewarding the dog with:
A favorite food treat (small bits so as not to gain weight)
A belly rub
A chest scratch
An ear rub
Under the collar neck scratch
A favorite toy
A game of fetch
A food stuffed Kong
A rawhide(make an educated decision with your vet to use or not use rawhide)
A Nylabone
A Raw Bone
Petting
Car Ride
Monday, October 19, 2009
Crate Training
When you get your puppy or new dog, get a cage or crate that is large enough for your adult dog to stand turn around and lay down comfortably. If you have a puppy try to judge how large he will be as an adult and get that size cage/crate. When you get a small puppy that will be much bigger as an adult use a cage divider(a metal crate "wall") that many cages come with to divide the cage into smaller areas for the young puppy, or use a heavy duty cardbord box to cut down the size of the cage for your puppy(watch the cardboard for signs of wear and tear, remove if the puppy chews it replace with a cage divider).
Make sure you leave just enough room for the young, small puppy to stand(usually not a problem)turn around, and lie down comfortably. If you leave to much room in the crate for the young pup he/she will poop and pee on one side and sleep on the other. You NEVER want your puppy to learn to go to the bathroom in the crate, sometimes accidents happen and if your puppy goes a few times that usually is not a problem but you don't want it to become a habit.
Many times puppies gotten from pet stores will go to the bathroom in their crates, for these dogs try to leave their crate door open and put an exercise pen or puppy play pen attached so the puppy cannot leave the area but doesn't have to go to the bathroom in their cage, He or she can go to the bathroom in the puppy pen(you can put wee wee pads or newspaper down in the puppy play pen, but not in the crate!. NEVER line the cage with newspaper or wee wee pads, this sends the message that the puppy is SUPPOSED to go to the bathroom in their cage/crate. You don't want that !
Put some soft bedding in the crate if the dog doesn't try to eat it/shred it. If they eat or shred the bedding put them in the crate with just the bottom tray pan that comes with the crate, and no bedding.
1)Put in a couple of safe chew toys(large enough that they can't choke on, hard enough that they can break off large pieces and swallow them. )
2)Also put in an article of clothing or a blanket with your sent on it.(if the puppy doesn't chew it)
Leave the crate door open and let the puppy explore, it is a great idea to feed the puppy in the crate sometimes , and give him/her treats and special toys to find in the crate. This all makes the crate a happy and positive place to be.
Put the crate in an area of the house that is frequently visited by the family at first, many people pick the kitchen or living room.
Use a leash on the puppy(ONLY WHEN SUPERVISED) so that the puppy doesn't wander away to have an accident, or wanders off when he/she doesn't feel like paying attention, or doesn't sneak away to "get into" something he/she shouldn't have.
Another fun thing to do is to play "kibble toss" take your dog's dry dog food or small treats and toss /scatter them in the crate then leave the crate door open and let the dog "have at it".
Another way to get the dog to go in the cage and stay there with the cage door open is to tie(on a VERY short string or chain- if it's too long it can be a choking hazard) a food-stuffed kong to the back of the cage so the dog has to go in to enjoy it , but can't bring the toy out with him/her(it's attached to the cage!)
A Lixit water bottle is a great attachment to the crate (they are like the hamster water bottles that you hang on a hamster cage but they ake them in dog sizes too.)
Crate training is invaluable for house training(getting the dog not to have potty accidents in the house), for keeping the puppy/dog safe from getting into unsafe foods/items in the house, for keeping safe and peaceful around rough children/or the other way around... if your dog doesn't like children.
Another great thing about teaching your dog to be crate trained is if they ever have to travel,by car or by air, or are sick and have to go to the vet, it is a lot less stressful when they know that a cage is a "happy " place.
Eventually work up to short and longer times in their crates with the door shut.
Make sure you leave just enough room for the young, small puppy to stand(usually not a problem)turn around, and lie down comfortably. If you leave to much room in the crate for the young pup he/she will poop and pee on one side and sleep on the other. You NEVER want your puppy to learn to go to the bathroom in the crate, sometimes accidents happen and if your puppy goes a few times that usually is not a problem but you don't want it to become a habit.
Many times puppies gotten from pet stores will go to the bathroom in their crates, for these dogs try to leave their crate door open and put an exercise pen or puppy play pen attached so the puppy cannot leave the area but doesn't have to go to the bathroom in their cage, He or she can go to the bathroom in the puppy pen(you can put wee wee pads or newspaper down in the puppy play pen, but not in the crate!. NEVER line the cage with newspaper or wee wee pads, this sends the message that the puppy is SUPPOSED to go to the bathroom in their cage/crate. You don't want that !
Put some soft bedding in the crate if the dog doesn't try to eat it/shred it. If they eat or shred the bedding put them in the crate with just the bottom tray pan that comes with the crate, and no bedding.
1)Put in a couple of safe chew toys(large enough that they can't choke on, hard enough that they can break off large pieces and swallow them. )
2)Also put in an article of clothing or a blanket with your sent on it.(if the puppy doesn't chew it)
Leave the crate door open and let the puppy explore, it is a great idea to feed the puppy in the crate sometimes , and give him/her treats and special toys to find in the crate. This all makes the crate a happy and positive place to be.
Put the crate in an area of the house that is frequently visited by the family at first, many people pick the kitchen or living room.
Use a leash on the puppy(ONLY WHEN SUPERVISED) so that the puppy doesn't wander away to have an accident, or wanders off when he/she doesn't feel like paying attention, or doesn't sneak away to "get into" something he/she shouldn't have.
Another fun thing to do is to play "kibble toss" take your dog's dry dog food or small treats and toss /scatter them in the crate then leave the crate door open and let the dog "have at it".
Another way to get the dog to go in the cage and stay there with the cage door open is to tie(on a VERY short string or chain- if it's too long it can be a choking hazard) a food-stuffed kong to the back of the cage so the dog has to go in to enjoy it , but can't bring the toy out with him/her(it's attached to the cage!)
A Lixit water bottle is a great attachment to the crate (they are like the hamster water bottles that you hang on a hamster cage but they ake them in dog sizes too.)
Crate training is invaluable for house training(getting the dog not to have potty accidents in the house), for keeping the puppy/dog safe from getting into unsafe foods/items in the house, for keeping safe and peaceful around rough children/or the other way around... if your dog doesn't like children.
Another great thing about teaching your dog to be crate trained is if they ever have to travel,by car or by air, or are sick and have to go to the vet, it is a lot less stressful when they know that a cage is a "happy " place.
Eventually work up to short and longer times in their crates with the door shut.
Come When Called Command
Make "Come When Called" a GAME!
Call the dog "Their name" and Come! Example "Rover, Come!"
Do not be wordy... that is the command, however if the dog looks when you call or starts coming when you call "talk it up"/whistle , squat down and let your dog know what he is doing is the best thing in the world at that moment!
At the beginning, have a leash ,rope, or long line or flexi leash on every time when training the dog to come.(you don't have to hold the leash rope as the dog gets better at the come when called you can let the leash/rope drag on the ground and pick it up to reel your dog in(like a fish) only as necessary.
CAUTION: ALWAYS SUPERVISE a dog with a LEASH attached to it, they can get hooked on something and choke to death.
Have a long leash/rope on the dog or have the dog on a flexi leash(retractible leash) so if they decided not to come you can reel them in and make them come.
Call the dog and have something special (favorite toy/food treat/belly rub etc.) when the dog gets there. Give the dog the "treat" (whatever you know he LOVES) and give a release command like "OK" "Free" so he or she can run off and you can try it again.
Have short training sessions 5-10 minutes, doing the same command over and over again bores the dog just like you would hate to do the same thing over and over, so each command only 2-4 times and thats it!
Yesterday when I went to the farm stand I brought my oldest dog with me she is 11 years old.
She knows come when called but I decided to practice with her. I took her for a walk/run on small field away from people. I had her on a flexi leash and called her when I was ready to leave. If I had called her once and made her get in the car and leave, she would have known if I come my fun is over and I have to get in the car and go home... BUMMER! Instead even though I was ready to leave I gave her the release command and let her play some more. Then called her again in a few minutes and I did this 3 -4 times and then got her in the car to go. This way she thought we played a fun game and it was not so bad to get in the car and leave.
Vary the amount of times never call only 3 times or the smarter the dog is, the more they will GET that 3 times and we have to go so I won't coem to my owner the third time! They are smart!
One of THE biggest complaints that I hear from clients is their dogs won't come in from the backyard when they have to go to work. OK, here's the time to think like a dog, if you know every day at a certain time your owner calls you to come in the house and then locks you in
a crate and leaves would YOU want to "Come When Called" and get locked in a crate all day or even have your most beloved human leave for so many hours during the day.
Now I am not telling you to not use a crate, a crate is a dog's den/bed and safe place, A crate is a GREAT tool, my dog's each have a crate and it is theirs for their life to use as they choose or as I need to. But do not call the dog in and directly crate him...break the routine up a little.
Call him in and have a small game of fetch inside, or give him a food stuffed kong toy. Then in a few minutes put him.her in his/her crate with a special toy or an item that smells like you.
I will talk about crate training in the next post.
Call the dog "Their name" and Come! Example "Rover, Come!"
Do not be wordy... that is the command, however if the dog looks when you call or starts coming when you call "talk it up"/whistle , squat down and let your dog know what he is doing is the best thing in the world at that moment!
At the beginning, have a leash ,rope, or long line or flexi leash on every time when training the dog to come.(you don't have to hold the leash rope as the dog gets better at the come when called you can let the leash/rope drag on the ground and pick it up to reel your dog in(like a fish) only as necessary.
CAUTION: ALWAYS SUPERVISE a dog with a LEASH attached to it, they can get hooked on something and choke to death.
Have a long leash/rope on the dog or have the dog on a flexi leash(retractible leash) so if they decided not to come you can reel them in and make them come.
Call the dog and have something special (favorite toy/food treat/belly rub etc.) when the dog gets there. Give the dog the "treat" (whatever you know he LOVES) and give a release command like "OK" "Free" so he or she can run off and you can try it again.
Have short training sessions 5-10 minutes, doing the same command over and over again bores the dog just like you would hate to do the same thing over and over, so each command only 2-4 times and thats it!
Yesterday when I went to the farm stand I brought my oldest dog with me she is 11 years old.
She knows come when called but I decided to practice with her. I took her for a walk/run on small field away from people. I had her on a flexi leash and called her when I was ready to leave. If I had called her once and made her get in the car and leave, she would have known if I come my fun is over and I have to get in the car and go home... BUMMER! Instead even though I was ready to leave I gave her the release command and let her play some more. Then called her again in a few minutes and I did this 3 -4 times and then got her in the car to go. This way she thought we played a fun game and it was not so bad to get in the car and leave.
Vary the amount of times never call only 3 times or the smarter the dog is, the more they will GET that 3 times and we have to go so I won't coem to my owner the third time! They are smart!
One of THE biggest complaints that I hear from clients is their dogs won't come in from the backyard when they have to go to work. OK, here's the time to think like a dog, if you know every day at a certain time your owner calls you to come in the house and then locks you in
a crate and leaves would YOU want to "Come When Called" and get locked in a crate all day or even have your most beloved human leave for so many hours during the day.
Now I am not telling you to not use a crate, a crate is a dog's den/bed and safe place, A crate is a GREAT tool, my dog's each have a crate and it is theirs for their life to use as they choose or as I need to. But do not call the dog in and directly crate him...break the routine up a little.
Call him in and have a small game of fetch inside, or give him a food stuffed kong toy. Then in a few minutes put him.her in his/her crate with a special toy or an item that smells like you.
I will talk about crate training in the next post.
Friday, October 16, 2009
Pleased to Meet You!
Hi ! My name is Toni Kaste and I have over 25 years experience as a professional dog trainer.
I have over 31 years experience working with dogs in all settings.
I have worked in boarding kennels, as an Veterinary Assistant, as an adoption counsellor at shelters, as a private and in-home dog trainer, had group classes, teach Canine Good Citizen ( CGC ) classes and am certified give the AKC CGC test. I have worked with Guide Dogs for the Blind both training the guide dogs and the blind students. Trained dogs at shelters to be more easily adoptable. Mentored students learning the "hands on" phase of Animal Behavior College's Dog Trainer's Course.
I have worked dogs in agility(dog obstacle course), obedience competition-from novice to utility, rally, frisbee, hunting tests and more. I achieved AKC titles on my dogs.
I have over 31 years experience working with dogs in all settings.
I have worked in boarding kennels, as an Veterinary Assistant, as an adoption counsellor at shelters, as a private and in-home dog trainer, had group classes, teach Canine Good Citizen ( CGC ) classes and am certified give the AKC CGC test. I have worked with Guide Dogs for the Blind both training the guide dogs and the blind students. Trained dogs at shelters to be more easily adoptable. Mentored students learning the "hands on" phase of Animal Behavior College's Dog Trainer's Course.
I have worked dogs in agility(dog obstacle course), obedience competition-from novice to utility, rally, frisbee, hunting tests and more. I achieved AKC titles on my dogs.
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